Mariano Fortuny 1910

Statement of significance
Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) was a Spanish artist and designer who registered many extraordinary inventions. His most successful patent was for the 'Delphos' gown, which he first designed in 1907. The finely pleated silk gown represented the classic, ideal form. It freed women from the constraints of the corset and now epitomises Fortuny's style.

The 'Delphos' gown was worn in the early twentieth century by some of the most avant-garde women in Europe and America. Fortuny was to repeat it, with only subtle variations, over the next forty years. Fortuny also designed exquisite gowns of printed and stencilled velvet with panels of finely pleated silk. He saw himself as an artist and had no aspiration to be part of high fashion with its constant change. He blended his love for medieval history and classical Greece with a fascination for technology and the skills of the craftsman. Working closely with his wife, Henriette, their work combined the ideals of the Aesthetic Movement and Modernism.

Henriette assisted Fortuny in the manufacture of unusual dyes and pigments and also made up the garments. They devised unique printing and stencilling techniques for the exquisite silks and velvets. Only the tiny Venetian glass beads threaded onto silk cord at the neck and armholes were made elsewhere. 'Delphos' gowns were dyed individually in a wide range of unusual colours. Delicate silk was processed on porcelain rollers to create fine, uneven pleats, one of his many innovations. The dresses were finally rolled up into a tightly twisted ball and presented in a small silk bag, perfect for travelling.

The production process took place at the Palazzo Orfei, the palace in Venice where Fortuny spent the most creative period of his life. His family had moved there when he was eighteen to relieve his allergy to horses.

In 1927 an American interior designer, Elsie McNeill, discovered Fortuny's work and asked if she could sell his goods in America. This venture proved highly successful until the second world war made imports impossible.

After Fortuny's death in 1949, Henriette persuaded Elsie to manufacture the Delphos gowns again and a revival occurred. Following an exhibition held in the Los Angeles County Museum in 1967, Fortuny's style re-emerged. His work was featured in fashion magazines and soon became among the most highly valued collectable garments at international auctions, a status they still hold today.
Description
Evening dress, 'Delphos', womens, pleated silk, Mariano Fortuny, Venice, Italy, 1910-1920

Full length evening dress of finely pleated vivid green satin-weave silk. Constructed of four pre-pleated pieces, hand sewn together into a cylindrical shape with short sleeves and a wide, scooped drawstring neckline. Laced at neck, shoulders and sleeves with a cream silk cord which is weighted with brown and white Venetian beads.

SOURCE: Powerhouse museum website.

Simply put Amazing detail when it came to the pleated DELPHOES dress. I mean just the way it sits/lays on the body with such simplicity of detailed craftsmanship. I would like to see this dress up close in person. Photography does not do this dress justice. The close up pictures only gave me a tease of how detailed and crafted this garment really is. Simply amazing.

Universal Sewing Blog Review.

After carefully reviewing Universal Sewing's Blog I have come to the conclusion of it being on its way to becoming a blog worthy for others to utilize for reference to certain extents. A few key points that make it stand out in a positive way are the up close detailed pictures of the project the blogger gives. Background colors are a bit calming, though I would not rule out the option for a more vibrant feel. Also noted that certain posts would allow me to click on them yet nothing opened up further. No worries on that one. Fixable most definitely though confusing to someone that is taking a gander at it. That may explain why I did not see more paragraph descriptions discussing the posts on the blog. In summary it is well organized and with a little more work well on its to becoming a well put together blog. I would recommend other bloggers to follow this blog member to see how there upcoming posts.

Howl for the Cowl.

I tried my hand at draping some cowls on a manikin bodice. Contrary to what I thought on my ability to drape some cowls that being to forceful with draping of any type of material even muslin. That one needs to have a more gentle touch and approach to it. Forcefulness is not advised.

Draping full circle & half circle Muslin.

Draping full circles as well as half circle pieces out of Muslin was quite interesting. If I were to have cut more half circle pieces out of Muslin I would have used them to create scales by over laying/lapping them to give it that lizard armour look. I also learned about how to measure out a certain size for a particular circle piece.

Celebrities wearing Princess and Empire line dresses to various award events.

Anne Hathaway, Mila Kunis, & Katy Perry.

Flared skirt and Gored skirt on a size 8 manikin for draping.

I tried my hand at a flared skirt as well as a gored skirt on a manikin for my college draping corse. It was a small challenge to make everything line up and drape/hang the right way on the bodice of the manikin. I would like to have another go at it. Practice makes perfect.

Piet Mondrain inspirations

The way Mondrain takes geometric shapes with primary color hues against a white background with dark black straight lines running vertical and horizontal throughout each piece. In part to everything Mondrain conveys in his pieces which also share a bit of Bauhaus ideology.

Bauhaus inspirations

Various circles, curves, sharp straight lines, and intersecting from the Bauhaus period. Note the preciseness of each angle, arc, and curve.

Simplicity Project runway princess dress pattern

Simplicity amazing fit collection princess dress patterns

Simplicity Project Runway Empire dress pattern

In-depth look at the Empire line dress.

The empire line dress or better known as the apron or high stomacher dress hey complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only. Side front seams were left open to several inches below the waist and a band or string was located at the front of the waste of the skirt. The lady slipped a garment overhead putting her arms to the sleeves and then tied the way string around the back like an apron. The bodice often had a pair of under flaps that pinned across the chest supporting the bust. In modern times zippers and fasteners such as hook and eye closures are used to get in and out of most female garments such as the empire line. Often elaborate embroidery was used on empire line dresses. Just like the princess line the empire line dresses are most commonly seen in modern times in bridal wear.